TRAVELING IN JAPAN

It’s gotten to the point that at least once a week, a new person reaches out to me to tell me that they are planning a trip to Japan. This is great and I am excited that so many people are coming to visit my favorite country; however, I find myself repeating myself over and over and figured it’d be best for everyone if I just made a page on my website dedicated to all things related to Japan.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Flights and Visas

The flight to Japan from America is undeniably long and the jetlag is a pain (13 or 14 hours ahead of ET, depending on daylight savings.) That said, you can make it more bearable by flying with a Japanese carrier (JAL or ANA,) which have incredible services and amenities. I have flown with cheaper carriers; however, if you can avoid it, I would absolutely recommend paying more to fly with a Japanese airline.

If you are flying through Tokyo, you will fly to either Narita or Haneda Airport. Narita is much farther from the city so if you have to choice, I recommend Haneda. Both have shuttles and trains that will get you into the city so I wouldn’t worry too much about that.

If you are a U.S. passport holder, you will get a 90 day visa on arrival and do not need to apply for anything ahead of time.

Transit and Navigation

Japan is incredibly organized and efficient but my one qualm is that it’s nearly impossible to navigate without a smartphone. The streets are not clearly named, the buildings don’t have visible numbers… It’s a bit of a mess. That said, if you have access to Google Maps, you will be fine. This brings me to my next suggestion: get a pocket wifi or SIM card. You will have a much better time navigating the streets and train systems.

The transit system in Japan may seem daunting as there are so many overlays of routes all working at once, but I promise that once you get the hang of it, you’ll prefer it to any other system in the world. The chances of your train not arriving or departing at the exact second it says it will are slim to none. As a foreign visitor, you have access to a ticket called the Japan Rail Pass. If you plan on going to multiple cities during your stay, this is probably the most cost efficient way to get around.

I also recommend that you pick up an IC card. There are various options, such as Suica, ICOCA, and Pasmo, and you can get them at train stations, convenience stores or in the mail before you arrive. They’re similar to Octopus cards in Hong Kong and Oyster cards in London. You can use them for train fares, to buy things at restaurants and vending machines and in other circumstances that aren’t coming to mind at the moment. Just trust me; they are the best.

Rules. Are. Important.

Japan is a country that is all about the rules. Unlike other countries where you can kind of get away with skirting the rules, Japan doesn’t operate that way and you’ll see that people take social contracts much more seriously here. There are basic ones, like taking off your shoes when you enter a house and not eating or drinking while outside, but there are other more subtle ones that are equally important to know. You can find some lists here and here to explain in further detail. When in doubt, say gomenasai (I’m sorry) and throw in some sumimasens (excuse me.) Apologizing gets you far in Japan.

KANTO

Kanto refers to the region in central Honshu (the main island in Japan,) that includes Tokyo and its surrounding cities. It is usually the first place that most people visit when coming to Japan. Tokyo is a sprawling city that is energetic and has so many types of places to visit. If it’s your first time in Tokyo, you can consult the internet to tell you the main places to go that I can’t be bothered to visit because they’re too touristy. (You won’t catch me at a robot show or maid cafe.) That said, if you’re interested in the places that are slightly off the beaten path, below is my list of recommendations:

SHIBUYA/SHINJUKU

Shibuya is a large area in Tokyo where most people go to explore. It’s famous for spots like the Shibuya Scramble Crosswalk and Takeshita Street in Harajuku but there’s much more to uncover that isn’t as touristy. I like Cat Street for cool stores, as well as Golden Gai in Shinjuku for low key drinks. If you want to escape from the hoards of people in Omotesando, I would recommend dipping into Meiji Shrine or just taking some time to walk around Yoyogi park.

NAKAMEGURO/DAIKANYAMA

Daikanyama separates Shibuya from Nakameguro and is worth checking out. Apparently, it has been dubbed the “Brooklyn of Japan,” which I’m not sure how I feel about but if I had to describe it, I’d say that it is a perfect example of a modern Japanese neighborhood. You won’t find an overabundance of tourists but there is so much to do. Visit T-Site (a Tsutaya concept store) and chill with a book, have some craft beer at Spring Valley Brewery or if you’re in need of some New York pizza, visit Slice for pizza that may make you cry a few tears of nostalgia (which I definitely maybe didn’t do...)

Nakameguro is a lovely extension of Daikanyama and is a little more quaint. I would recommend walking along Meguro River and popping into shops and cafes that catch your eye. It’s especially beautiful in spring when the cherry blossoms are blooming.

GINZA/TOKYO STATION

I would liken Ginza to Fifth Avenue in New York. While I find it to be touristy, there are some buildings and places that I really like. In a department store called Ginza Six, I like to sneak up to the top floor where there is another amazing Tsutaya book store. The layout and curation is excellent and I always want to spend all of my yen there. My other favorite store in Ginza is Dover Street Market. It’s connected to a large Uniqlo, which is important.

This area is close to the Imperial Palace, which would be cool if you could actually see it from the outside. It’s tucked away and not visible from the plebs section (a.k.a. the road) but there are some well manicured trees adjacent to it, which are kinda fun, I guess.

Tokyo Station was recently restored and has a really incredible exterior that is classic post-Meiji Restoration architecture. I would walk by and continue to a restaurant called Otako for some oden, a soy sauce based fish cake. It’s 96 years old and they’ve been continuing the same broth for over half a century. You may have to wait a little bit but it’s worth it. Be sure to order the toumeshi (とうめし).

OTHER FUN PLACES IN TOKYO

My friend and I visited teamLab Planets in autumn and I loved the entire experience. teamLab is “an art collective, interdisciplinary group of ultratechnologists whose collaborative practice seeks to navigate the confluence of art, science, technology, design and the natural world.” That is all to say that they’re an incredibly cool company making incredibly cool exhibits. Definitely worth spending a few hours exploring.

If you’re a fan of Hayao Miyazaki, there is a Ghibli Museum outside of the city that I have always wanted to visit and have heard good things about.

KAMAKURA

Kamakura is a town that is about an hour from Tokyo by train. It’s a sleepy little coastal town, that is quaint and a nice break from the more urban areas surrounding it. There are tons of temples and places to get lost but I really loved Hasedera, which is within walking distance from the large Buddha. If you need a coffee after the temples, check out ToBoRu Coffee or have some curry at woof.

HAKONE

Hakone is a town located about 90 minutes from Tokyo so it’s possible to visit in one day although I’d recommend staying overnight and truly relaxing. It’s best known for its onsen (natural hot springs) and has a number of excellent art museums that are also worth experiencing. It’s out of the way but not hard to get to and a great way to see rural, mountainous Japan.

KANSAI

Kansai refers to the area of Honshu that includes Osaka, Kyoto, Nara and Kobe. It’s southwest of Tokyo and is easily accessible by riding the shinkansen (bullet train.) Compared to Tokyo, Osaka is a bit more relaxed and less populous; however, it’s still a fun place to explore and considered the food capital of Japan. One of my favorite dining experiences thus far was in the basement of a random office building in Umeda, where my friend and I had to shuffle along the wall sideways in order to get in because it was so small. Instead of ordering, I asked the chef to prepare the most popular menu items and we ate a feast of incredible food that was prepared an arms length in front of us. Some of the textures/flavors were.. unique (it’s best to google shirako AFTER you’ve eaten it,) but it was the best way to eat like a native and get a well rounded Japanese experience. I highly recommend seeking out places where there is no English menu and the vibe is slightly grungy but mostly cozy. My cousin once explained that restaurants with dirty noren (curtains in the entrance) are the best to visit because “until the 1940s, Izakaya and restaurant customers used to wipe their fingers with the entrance noren. Customers were able to tell how famous and renowned a restaurant was based on how dirty it had become.” Japan is an incredibly clean country and food safety is taken way more seriously here than in the States. While I have heard some friends mention a fear of getting food poisoning here, I have never experienced any type of food illness in Japan and can assure you that you will be okay.

Without further adieu, here are my recos for the best region in Japan (IMHO):

OSAKA

When in Osaka, you’ll most likely be directed to places like Osaka Castle and Dotonbori. While these spots are cool, I would highly recommend visiting neighborhoods like Nakazakicho and exploring Utsubo Park (which was a former military airfield.) I also highly recommend visiting the Osaka Kaiyukan Aquarium. It’s one of the largest aquariums in the world and has a variety of impressive species, including multiple whale sharks. While I don’t usually visit zoos or aquariums when I am abroad (I find most to be depressing,) the Kaiyukan is one that I visit almost every time I’m here.

Also, Osaka has a great vintage clothing scene. Some of my favorite stores include 11747391, KAKA VAKA, JAM and RAIN. These are all in Amemura (American Village,) which is in Shinsaibashi. If you’re hungry, I recommend getting some Japanese curry at Koji Labo in Namba. It’s run by one guy, who stands behind the counter and prepares your curry as you sit at the bar. He’s super friendly and the curry rice is delicious. Just make sure you go hungry because his portions are generous.

My final recommendation in Osaka is a neighborhood called Tsuruhashi. It’s Japan’s k-town and a great place to have authentic Korean food. Last time I was there, I wandered into a store that served the best gejang (spicy raw crab) I’ve ever had in my life. There are two areas to wander around: the labyrinth near the JR train station and then about 10 minutes walk away, the street with all of the stalls of food and other random Korean things.

KYOTO

There is so much to write about Kyoto and lately, I’ve had such a love/hate relationship with it. It’s definitely my favorite city in Japan but is increasingly overrun with tourists and can feel overwhelmingly un-Japanese in how crowded it is. That is of course if you don’t know the right places to go…

Most people have Fushimi Inari, Kinkakuji, Nijo jo and the Arashiyama bamboo forest as their main places to visit. They’re all absolutely amazing and worth visiting but beware that they will be very crowded. Here’s how I’d plan a trip around Kyoto so that you can see the famous landmarks while also having some more authentic experiences intermixed.

DAY ONE: Wake up as early as possible and take a train to Inari Station. Walk to Fushimi Inari and walk as much of the course as possible. I say this because the Instagram influencers will all huddle at the bottom and take up space but as you climb more of the mountain, they taper off and you get to experience the walk in solitude. It’s an ancient pilgrimage and stunning but not for the faint of heart. I would classify myself as someone who is in shape and yet I felt it in my legs the next day.

Next, take the JR line to Uji, a town best known for its matcha. If you can make a reservation in advance, check out my favorite restaurant in Kyoto, Jasmine. It’s run by the sweetest couple and is Kyoto-style healthy Chinese food. They only prepare the portions they need for the day based on reservations so you’ll just have to call in advance to get a table. After lunch, amble over to Byodoin, my favorite temple. It’s 1000 years old and is in the most picturesque setting. On your way back to the train, stop at Nakamura Tokichi, a tea store and cafe that’s been in operation since 1854.

If you still have energy, take the train to Gion and try to see a geiko (geisha) or maiko (geiko in training) scurrying around as they prepare for the evening. There are only 200 active geiko/maiko so most people you see in kimono aren’t the real deal. The best time to see one is around twilight but in all of the time that I’ve been in Kyoto, I have only seen one. If you’re hungry, grab some yakitori at Tarokichi.

DAY TWO: Take a bus to Kinkakuji. It opens at 9 a.m. and if you can, I would go as early as possible. It’s such a serene place but is mobbed with people almost as soon as it opens. After Kinkakuji, walk to Ryoanji, a zen temple with a beautiful rock garden. It’s just a bit more chill.

Then, take a tiny train to Arashiyama. There are good places to eat in Arashiyama and it’s mostly street food. It’s also well known for the bamboo forest, which is beautiful and cool and filled with tourists usually (are you sensing a theme?) If there isn’t a crazy line, grab some coffee at % Arabica. On the other side of the river, there is a monkey forest that is basically your average monkey forest so unless you’re really into apes, I would say it’s skippable.

DAY THREE: Start your day in Higashiyama. My favorite street is best in the morning when there aren’t people around. Of course there is another % Arabica store on that street (they know me very well at all three locations.) meander towards Kiyomizudera. When it’s not under construction, Kiyomizudera is a stunning temple that I would highly recommend; however, for the past year, it’s been under construction and I don’t think it will be finished anytime soon. SAD. As you head back towards Kawaramachi, see if the Ukiyoe Small Museum is open. According to the sign outside, the museum is “open when I wake up and close when I must go to sleep. When I’ve had enough, the store is closed.”

Cross Kamo River and walk towards Sanjo and Shijo. They are streets run parallel to the main street in Kawaramachi and are more understated and nice. I also LOVE the department store BAL. If you’re hungry and like unagi (eel,) I like to pop into Kyogoku Kaneyo, a hundred year old eel shop. (Note their dirty noren.)

Walk or take the train to Nijo Castle and see an important place in Japanese history (I’m too tired to type the details.) If you want to see more important historical stuff, you can visit the grounds of the Kyoto Imperial Palace. It is quite cool but they do a bag security check so leave your guns and ammo at your ryokan.

NARA

Nara is a quick 30 minute train ride from Kyoto station and is where I’m from! It was the capital of Japan in the 8th century and is worth spending a day exploring, especially because it isn’t as overrun with tourists as Kyoto. The most famous landmark is Todaiji, the wooden architectural structure that houses the world’s largest Buddha statue. On the grounds around the temple, you’ll see HOARDS of deer bowing and head butting anyone with snacks. From there, visit Kofukuji and the remains of Nara’s Imperial Palace. It’s not close by but if you have time, also swing by Horyuji, the world’s oldest wooden buildings and my favorite site in Nara.

KOBE

Kobe is another city that has solid vibes. It’s close to Osaka and Kyoto but for some reason, not as many tourists choose to visit it (yay.) Historically, it’s been one of the major port cities in Japan, which also means that it has a unique blend of international architecture and cuisine. Within a mile, you’ll walk through an area that looks like China, then an area that feels like you’ve stepped into a small European city and then a beautiful mosque. In a country that is so homogenous, it’s nice to remember that other countries exist outside of Japan. There are places to eat Kobe beef if you’re into meats. I generally have a great time walking around Sannomiya Station and towards Kobe Port. Check out Nada if you’re interested in visiting a sake brewery or take the Nunobiki Ropeway to see the city from atop the mountain. If you are interested in Castles, Himeji Castle is probably the most stunning in all of Japan and is very accessible from Kobe.

OTHER PARTS OF JAPAN

Aside from Kanto and Kansai there are many other areas in Japan that are worth visiting. With a JR pass, you have unlimited access to the shinkansen and can move around Honshu very easily. Below are a few more areas that I would definitely recommend checking out:

KANAZAWA

Kanazawa is a city on the Sea of Japan that is accessible from both Tokyo and Kyoto in about 3 hours via train. I highly recommend visiting if you have an additional day or two in your schedule. It’s home to one of the most famous gardens in Japan, Kenrokuen, a funky modern art museum called the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (designed by one of my fave architectural firms, SANAA, and housing pieces by James Turrell and this pool thing.) Afterward, scoot over to Higashi Chaya for tea and gold ice cream. Finally, finish off your day at Omicho Market, a covered fish market where you can eat amazing crab and my favorite fish, nodoguro. There’s also a temple called Ninjadera that is not actually associated with ninjas but has many deceptive escape routes and defense mechanisms in place. I haven’t been but it’s high on my list for next time I’m in town.

HOKKAIDO

Hokkaido is definitely my favorite place to spend the winter in Japan. It is the northernmost island of Japan and averages 235 inches of snow each year. I have friends who have skied all over Europe and the States and yet they claim that Hokkaido has the best powder in the entire world. I have only skied there a handful of times but it is always incredible. If you love amazing seafood, gorgeous landscapes, natural hot springs and the best skiing in the world, you must visit Hokkaido in the winter.

OKINAWA

If skiing is not your thing, you can head directly south and visit Okinawa, the southernmost island in Japan. The overall vibe is similar to Hawai’i in that it has stunning beaches but has a different local atmosphere than that of the mainland. Okinawan cuisine is some of the most unique that I have experienced (sea cucumber is much less visually appetizing than you’d expect,) and due to the large presence of American miltiary bases, there’s an interesting hybrid culture that’s developed. If you can get away from the capital city of Naha, I would rent a car and drive either north or south; both are beautiful options!